When it comes to choosing a new suit, it’s not only the colour and fit that you need to consider carefully. Choosing the right fabric is imperative to the style and sophistication you are trying to achieve and is often the difference between making you feel good and making you feel great. However, picking the fabric can be overwhelming, so with so much choice out there what do you go for? Hereʼs our brief guide.
Wool & Silk
For us, nothing comes close to a wool and silk suit. Soft to touch and versatile to wear itʼs a timeless classic. The natural fibres means it breathes well but insulates in cooler temperatures. Itʼs also exceptionally durable – wool fibres can bend back on themselves 20,000 times without breaking, unlike cotton, which breaks after 3,200 times.
Also made from wool, worsted yarns are also very hard wearing but smoother and lighter in weight, and as a result is the suit of choice for city workers who donʼt want to compromise on quality.
Tweed, another wool type, is often associated with country dwellers, but has made a huge comeback in recent years with the vintage revival. Itʼs rough woolen fabrics have a flexible texture and again, offer great durability. Most renowned are the scottish Harris and Donegal variations. Contemporary tailoring from the likes of Canali means it has seen off its rural reputation, with plenty of offerings in this yearʼs Autumn/Winter collections as a great all rounder.
Cashmere fibres are much softer and finer than other wool types and therefore offer a much more luxurious feel, perfect for occasion wear, like weddings or parties rather than a suit for work.
Finally, we come to Super 150s. Whether youʼve heard of them or not you may be asking yourself whatʼs so super about them? Well, itʼs all to do with the sheep. Superior sheep make better wool. The higher the super number your suit is made from the high the grade of wool. Super 150s offer unique softness and strength and its fine wool fibres add durability and style.
The second most popular suit fabric next to wool, cotton is a great summer suiting option, and ideal for semi-formal occasions – although probably not suitable for the office. Cotton sits further away from the skin, which means itʼs more breathable than wool, however it does crease easily.
Definitely not one for the office, Velvet offers a truly luxurious look and feel. It is the perfect evening wear looks and is great for a dinner party jacket. Its closely woven blend of silk, cotton and nylon makes it extremely tactile, enhanced by its reflective sheen.
Linen is best in summer temperatures given that they are extremely lightweight and maintains its coolness. However, linen suits should be reserved for only casual for casual occasions only and even then youʼll need to watch out for the creases.